Getting A7's set-up....

[ClassicComics]

So I am finally trying to get these set-up... and here's where I am right now. I opened up one of the 807-8a drivers and it has a loading cap in it and it looks like an all aluminum diaphram, would this benefit by removing the loading cap on this and felt lining or not worth it on this model driver? I am sending my 808-8a's off to GPA.... course maybe I could just swap the diaphrams and save some money.... would that even work?

Second.... on the 807-8a I opened up, on the inside is a red wire going to the external binding post #1 and a green wire going to #2 (I looked underneath the loading cap to see which was supposed to be positive, but I didn't see any markings and am unsure how to tell otherwise. Any idea which is positive? Also, the red wire where it connects to the internal binding post with the loading cap on has a red mark on the outer ring right by the inner post, so I am guessing the red wire is right and this is positive then to external binding post #1?? Any thoughts? I can take pics if necessary.

Also, I tried it that way just so I could hear it and I played a little music through the one speaker, a little heavy metal, and there doesn't seem to be much bass... I know these aren't low bass speakers, but although there is music coming from the woofer it's not moving a whole lot.... it's been a while since I have listened to my VOTT's but I thought I remember them having more kick than this... all my connections seem to correct, and this dividing network was one I had in one of my speakers before and seems to be working.... any thoughts?

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ September 24, 2008 03:55 PM: Message edited by: ClassicComics ]</font>

[GM]

For HIFI/HT apps, loading caps are a no-no IMO on 800 series drivers unless they're driven hard and/or XO'd > 1 kHz.

Yes, you can swap the alum. diaphrams into the 808-8As to effectively make them 802s, but even if you do so, you still probably need them re-zapped if no super tweeter is used (recommended) since their life in prosound probably left them pretty 'flat'.

Find the driver's polarity by touching the wires to a 1.5 V battery and whichever wire attached to the positive (+) of the battery moves the diaphragm inwards is the positive lead, so take some fingernail polish (preferably bright red) or similar and place a dot beside the terminal this wire is attached to and if it's not attached to the cover speaker terminal (2) or (L2), then swap these also. A dot of polish on the (L2) cover terminal wouldn't hurt either.

WRT color coating, ideally a red wire will connect the (L2) to the (+) on the diaphragm and green or black between (L1) and (-).

Note that on woofers, (1) or (L1) is positive and moves the cone towards you.

Don't have a clue about the weak bass as there's too many variables, but the obvious two that come to mind is an air leak and if you didn't add the missing vent baffle board used when the horn is mounted on top, the cab will have a very high tuning, ergo very weak bass output.

GM

[ClassicComics]

thanks GM. I think I'll pull the loading caps from these 807-8a's and felt line the caps.

I think I solved the bass issue, once I connected up both speakers and turned up the volume a bit it sounded fine... I added my sub and even better. Just have to tweak them a bit and I should be good to go!